I used an old pattern of mine where the pocket opening transits the front dart and side body seam. Here are the pattern pieces:
There is a waist dart in the front body with a pocket slash, a side body with a notch that matches the slash, and three drill holes - one located 1cm below the bust dart apex, and two located 1cm inside the ends of the finished pocket. The front, side body, jets and the pocket flaps are blockfused, the pocket bag is cut in fabric, and there is a pocket bag lining and pocket flap lining.
The jets are 20mm wide, giving a finished width of 5mm. They are 4cm longer than the finished length of the pocket. The notches are located at endpoints of the pocket,with a 2cm extension either side:
The pocket flap has 1cm seam allowances, and its finished width (marked by notches) is 3-4mm wider than the finished width of the pocket - the flap is slightly eased to allow it to curve around the body (think cloth allowance).
The pocket flap lining is 2mm narrower around the curved edges, to enable the lining to turn readily to the wrong side and remain invisible:
The pocket bag is cut the same width as the jet, with matching notches:
The pocket lining is cut the same as the pocket bag, but 1cm (total width of jets) shorter:
And here are the cut and fused pieces ready to sew, the chalk dots will need to be on the wrong side, I have only marked them on the right side so they are easier for you to see:
Over to the machine...
I sew the front dart - this has a 6mm seam and I taper 1cm past the chalk dot at the bust apex (if you are not sure what I mean, check out this post on darts):
Sew the side body to the front - the notch on the side body should match the front slash:
You'll end up with a partially pre-cut pocket opening:
Fold your jets lengthwise and machine baste close to the raw edges, you should have four of these so they are ideal for chain piecing:
And bag out your pocket flap - see how the seam wants to turn to the wrong side already:
Over to the ironing board...
Press open the side body seam, and the dart seam - you will need to clip one side of the dart near the pocket slash to open it:
Give those jets a quick press so they are flat and straight:
Trim the corners of the pocket flaps:
Turn and press - the slightly smaller lining will bring the stitching line towards the wrong side:
The pocket corners should be symmetrical:
|Mmm, close enough...|
I'm going to stitch the jet to the pocket slash. The raw edges of the jet are butted up to the raw edges of the slash, the notches on the jet are placed 1cm outside the dots, remember the notches denote the finished end of the pocket:
Here the upper jet is sewn, you sew down the middle of the jet from notch to notch:
I align the edge of my presser foot to the edge of the jet, as it is the correct width at 5mm:
Check that both stitching lines are parallel, the same length, and that they start and finish exactly at the notch:
This is often easiest to assess from the reverse side, if it's not quite right, fix it now or it's too late!:
Cut the slash to the chalk dots, which are 1cm from the finished end of the pocket:
Then clip diagonally into the corners. Clip to within 1mm of the end of the final stitch, never past it:
Now you can carefully turn the ends of the jets to the wrong side:
Mmm, obviously we need to go back to the ironing board!
Back to the ironing board...
Press the jets into place from the wrong side, as you can see I've given them a rather hard whack with the iron:
The right side before the ends are sewn:
Sew the ends by folding back the body panel, and using your forefinger to hold the jets so they are abutting. Sew across the end:
After stitching - see how the upper jet looks slightly longer - it is! When sewing the jet onto the bias-y piece of the front panel lateral to the dart, it looks like the fabric has stretched. Mistakes are good if you learn from them - in future I will fusetape that piece to prevent it stretching:
If you are making a flap pocket, insert the flap as shown:
Flip to the wrong side, and sew the flap to the seam allowance of the upper jet:
It's quite narrow, but that's OK:
As you begin, flip the upper front up to check that the flap covers the lower jet sufficiently:
And do the same thing as you finish - the flap needs to reach to the end of the jet:
Once sewn, the reverse will look like this:
Lay on the pocket bag, right side facing down:
And sew it to the seam allowance of the upper jet, giving the pocket bag a slightly better seam allowance:
Likewise, sew the pocket lining to the seam allowance of the lower jet:
It should look like this:
Now you can sew the pocket bag and pocket lining together - start at one edge of the jets and sew down:
My pocket bags are slightly misaligned, but only you and I will know that! Sew around both corners:
and up the other side to finish:
That's it! This is before a final press:
And I don't think I'll bother because I'm not exactly going to wear this partial front out and about am I?!
I should mention that you need to final press over a ham or something - see how the ends don't wrap around the body and want to flip out - that's bad.
So there we have it - double jet pockets with flap in 10 easy steps! And there are only eight steps if you abandon the flap :)